Finding Flow in Rehab: Rebuilding more than just strength

Last week I caught myself in that familiar state when I lost track of time whilst rolling on the BJJ mats, just like I feel flowing up a boulder problem or years ago when I danced. Very different sports, very different settings but the same thing happening.

That sensation of things simply clicking and your movement feeling effortless and even losing track of time is something that happens when you are in a flow state. Whether you are on the wall, the mats or even on the stage it is often the reason that many athletes and performers do what they do. But this doesn’t to be exclusive to performers I believe flow has a powerful role to play in recovery, not just in performance.

For many of the clients that I work with the real turning point in their recovery is not when they get pain free but instead it’s when their on the wall movement feels natural again and they are no longer thinking about their injury for every move and instead start trusting their body again.

According to psychologist Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi a flow state is that sweet spot where challenge meets skill level and you can become fully immersed in the task at hand. Owen Schaffer a DePaul University Researcher built on this further by creating a framework for the conditions that must be present for flow to occur. These line up incredibly well with what’s required for a successful return to your sport and my rehab framework is built around these.

1. You know what to do and how to do a certain task/ movement

Rehab can feel overwhelming if you are unsure where to begin and what to focus on a clear plan is crucial. This can look like knowing how to fall and the step by step progressions into the skill you are working on.

2. You receive instant feedback from your environment or your body

Feedback is important to ensure you are on track exploring movement, cueing and building awareness so you know that you are doing the exercises and drills with intent and control.

3. Knowing where to go next

This often refers to spatial and navigation tasks but is also very applicable to a clear rehab direction with progressions along the way to build back up to complex skills.

4. Picking the right challenge level

Through creative drills and playful movement it’s possible to create challenging tasks that help your progress without overwhelming the body and causing a pain or fear response. Like trying out how to bail from a movement skill first like me doing this slide down the taller warped fall is going to make my next attempt feel far less intimidating.

5. You are free from distractions (these can be internal or external from observers and the environment)

This could look like being strategic when and where you train so you can perform at your best and really focus especially in the early days as you are slowly returning back on the wall.

6. Losing track of time and enjoying the task at hand

The goal of rehab sessions isn’t to just tick boxes, it’s to rediscover what it feel like to move with intention again on the wall, trusting your body and enjoying the session.

When we don’t quite trust out bodies yet after an injury this can often block our access to a flow state as our nervous system is overactive. It can show up in different ways e.g. overgripping when on the wall to avoid any chance of slipping or falling, holding excess tension in our body which can actually impair our co-ordination and constantly thinking about your injury as you’re moving.

Even after an injury has physically healed, the body often remembers the fear if a movement looks and feels similar to how you got hurt. Every movement decision on the wall can begin this stream of questions in your head. And without flow, climbing can start to feel less enjoyable. One way I help climbers move past this stage is by introducing new novel movement patterns, often ones that feel more creative and playful. I draw from my dancing experience, BJJ training, animal flow and even obstacle course training at the Ninja gym. They all build the same foundations of strength and control but often without the hesitation of “this is going to hurt” as they are different enough to climbing.

The playful movements involved in obstacle course training can naturally encourage these flow condition. You are solving movement puzzles in real time with each obstacle with various options to

• progress/ regress an obstacle to meet your skill level

• involve the whole body to regain movement co-ordination again which carries over better to climbing instead of isolating specific body parts

• bypass fear: as you are doing and playing rather than overthinking whether a movement is going to feel painful through lower risk challenges, controlled landings to gradually re-integrate back into your sport.

This shift towards flow based rehab has not only shaped my own training but also the way I coach clients and is why my approach is different to a traditional physio. So whether you are climbing, rolling or dancing creating environments that invite the conditions for flow to be present can help you rebuild that movement confidence once more.